NORTH STAR

Rice fields flash green and gold as far as the eye can see come harvest time

Kedah is the undisputed 'rice bowl' of Malaysia so it's hardly surprising that rice is a breakfast and lunch staple in this northern state.

Gravy party...nasi lemak drenched with various types of spicy gravy in Alor Setar

Despite its scant resemblance to nasi lemak of the central region, Alor Setar's version of nasi lemak is distinctive by the amount and types of gravy that are drenched over each platter of santan (coconut milk) enriched rice instead of the ubiquitous sambal ikan bilis (anchovies in ground chilli and spice paste) that commonly found in the Klang Valley.

We tried the dish at two different stalls and each time no less than 4-5 types of gravy in varying proportions are spooned over our plate of rice. The resultant platter will end up looking messy but packed with unabashedly complex and rich, robust flavours.

Fried chicken add extra substance to one's nasi lemak dish

The spicy gravy ranges from treacly sweet, smoky and spicy to thick, tangy and briny in red, brown and orangey hues, depending on whether it's core ingredient: fish, red meat, chicken or seafood. We discovered the different mix works cohesively well; similar to crossing nasi lemak with nasi kandar if you will.

Just like nasi kandar, you'd find complementing dishes of fried spiced chicken, fish, dry curried beef or mutton, squid and freshwater prawns, omelette or hard-boiled eggs, blanched okra and dalcha (cucumber, onion and pineapple pickles) available to add substance to one's rice serving.

Edible goodies are sold in abundant at this centrally located market in Alor Setar

For some edible souvenirs to take home, head over to Pekan Rabu, a local market with a congregation of food stalls and small enterprises proffering food, clothes, souvenirs and basic necessities under one roof.

Best things to buy for city slickers like us? Serunding, Malay-style beef, chicken or fish floss perked up with exotic spices that's sold by weight. Samplings are permitted the minute the trader senses your interest. It goes superbly well with nasi impit (boiled and solidly pressed rice cakes), lemang (glutinous rice cakes cooked in long tubular bamboo containers over wood and charcoal fire) or even plain steamed rice.

Certain shops bake and sell dainty egg sponge cakes called bahulu on the spot

Baked in sturdy metal moulds, the spongy cakes look similar to French madeleines albeit lighter in texture

Tidbits galore...take your pick of dried, pickled and preserved fruits, nuts, candies and crackers

We also bought some kuih bahulu, dainty baked egg sponge cakes that look like French madeleines with a lighter, airier texture and packets of rempeyek, fried local crackers studded with fried peanuts and anchovies.

A local speciality that caught our eye is kuih karas, a sweetish snack made from overlapping wisps of sweetened rice flour batter, fried to golden brown. It takes patience and dexterity to make as this lady demonstrated.

  Tied to a baton-like rod, this coconut shell scoop has holes pierced into its base to let streams of the batter through

Moving the hanging scoop in circles, fine streams of the batter flow into the oil-filled wok

The intersecting wisps eventually solidifies as they cooked

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Golden brown pieces of ready to eat kuih karas

Domestic tourists also cart bags of cashews and pistachios, perkasam (moist, salted fish), wrapped  up balls of tamarind pulp, dodol (sticky and sweet confection made from rice flour, coconut milk and palm sugar), traditional biscuits and chilli crisps.